How to start Bouldering
Ever wanted to try climbing but didn’t know where to start? Curious about climbing and open to new experiences? Or maybe you’re just here to learn something new and fun? Look no further! Today we're going to talk about how to start bouldering! This isn't about being good, or knowing everything. It's about feeling juuuust prepared enough to maybe give it a go!
Before You Climb:
There are a few small things to consider before getting started!
Clothes 👕👖 - No need to overthink this! Pants, shorts, leggings, tank tops, tees, hoodies—loose or fitted—you’ll see it all! Wear something that makes you feel comfortable and confident, and that doesn’t restrict your movement. Walls aren’t soft, so if you scrape or bruise easily, it’s a good idea to cover up! 🩹
Shoes - your first time you'll probably be renting shoes. Most places rent them out for around $5! Socks are optional, but I recommend thin socks with minimal stitching. Sizing for your first time, just go with your normal shoe size or 1/2 size down for a snug fit! They may be a bit uncomfortable, feel free to take them off between climbs!
Waiver 📋 - Every climbing gym requires a waiver, and most will also have you watch a safety video before starting. Plan to arrive a few minutes early, or check their website—you can often complete these steps online in advance, which is super helpful if you're socially anxious! 😊 Your first visit might also include a quick tour of the space and an overview of gym-specific rules.
Accessories 🧗♀️ - Like any sport, climbing has tons of accessories people swear by. My top recommendation: rent a chalk bag! 👜 While not required, chalk absorbs sweat and adds friction to your hands, making it easier to stick to walls!
Common Holds:
For today, let’s focus on hand holds—just put your feet wherever feels secure! One thing at a time. Most hand holds fall into three main categories: 👇
Jugs - Everyone's favorite, and the perfect starting point! Jugs are well-defined holds you can easily grab with all or most of your fingers. They come in many shapes but are always the most secure and beginner-friendly option.
Slopers - When the hold is too big to grip firmly, you’ve got a sloper! To tackle these tricky holds, focus on creating as much friction as possible. Chalk is your best friend here! ✋
Crimps 🤏 - When the hold is too small to grab fully, has a flat edge, or only allows you to use your fingertips, you’ve got a crimp! These test your finger and forearm strength, so approach with caution if it’s your first time climbing.
Boulder Types:
Call it a boulder, problem, route, or set—whatever you prefer! The type is usually defined by the wall's angle and the features you’re climbing, each offering unique benefits and challenges. 💪
Slab 🪨 - Slab walls angle inward as you climb, letting you lean into the wall and use your legs and friction more effectively. The tradeoff? Slab problems demand balance and precise footwork, often on smaller holds.
Flat 🧱 - Nearly vertical! As a beginner, you’ll likely spend a lot of time here. While flat routes don’t let you lean in like slabs, they still allow for good use of your legs and often feature positive, easy-to-grab holds. 👍
Overhung 🧗♂️ - Walls that lean backward as you climb are where things get tough! While you’ll still use your legs, body tension and upper body strength take center stage. You’ll expend a lot of energy just holding onto the wall, and your feet might occasionally ‘cut loose’—meaning they come off the wall entirely.
Cave 🕳️ - Cave boulders are the toughest! These overhung routes often leave you almost horizontal at points. They’re extremely "pumpy," demanding major upper and lower body strength and stamina. The silver lining? Thanks to the steep angle, you’re never too far off the ground, so falls aren’t as intimidating! 😅
Route Reading:
You don’t HAVE to follow a set route—your first few times, just climb wherever feels fun! But for those who like structure, climbing routes are intentionally designed and vary in difficulty. In the US, the most common scale is the V scale: V0 is the easiest, while V12+ is for elite climbers. Here are some basics for reading routes, though keep in mind these can vary between gyms!
What’s in? 🤔 - "In" means you can use the feature during the climb. In most gyms, holds of the same color are grouped together and count as "in." The wall itself is also always in (don’t worry, it’s not lava! 🌋), and so are volumes—large features attached to the wall to change its shape. Other holds may or may not be attached to the volume, so check before climbing!
Start 🚦 - The start is usually marked with a visual cue, like two pieces of tape showing where both hands go. If the tape is the same color but on different holds, start with one hand on each! The route difficulty is often indicated here too. To begin, establish a position with both hands on the start and your feet off the floor.
Finish 🏁 - The finish is typically marked at the top, where you’ll touch a final hold with both hands in a controlled way. Alternatively, you might "top out," which means holding the top of the wall or climbing over it. Just remember, once you’re up there, you’ll need to climb back down—so don’t go higher than you’re comfortable with!
Movement Basics:
Let’s keep this super simple for today! Keep your weight low, arms extended, and aim for a triangle shape with your body. This helps you stay stable and balanced. Stay tuned for a deeper dive in a follow-up post! 😉
Falling:
You're going to fall—it’s going to happen! Your safety video will teach you how, and I highly recommend practicing a few intentional falls. Mastering the motion will keep you safe—and it’s surprisingly fun! 😄
Hand Positions:
Climbing has a huge vocabulary, but early on, it’s helpful to know a few basics—especially for when you brag to your friends (and me!) about your send. (Sending means finishing a route! 🧗♂️) Here’s a quick rundown of a small HAND-full of terms! ✋
Undercling - It's in the name! Hold the hold from underneath!
Side Pull - Usually on a flat edged hold, you.. pull sideways. Also in the name.
Gaston - A fancy name for a side pull with your thumb upside-down.
Press - Also in the name, put your palm on it and press down or out to create body tension.
Pinch - Turns out these are all pretty self explanatory, aren't they?
Pocket - Beware of pockets day 1! These can be very hard on the fingers and hands, and of all the holds, pose the greatest risk of injury.
Closing Thoughts and Care!
The best advice I can give: have fun, take it slow, and stay curious! 🌟 Bouldering is an awesome way to explore movement, build strength, gain focus, solve problems, and make friends. Here are some quick final thoughts! 🤝
Take care of those hands! Callouses are bad news, sand em off! Moisturize, and wash those hands! Short nails are best, but if you like 'em long, just stick to jugs!
Warm up! Especially if you're over 30, your elbows will not be happy with you if you don't warm up. Take your time, and give it a few minutes between attempts.
Don't beta spray! This means giving unsolicited advice or coaching. Always ask first!
Don't be afraid to ask! Climbers are generally very friendly and LOVE nerding out, if you're struggling to figure something out, ask!
Afraid of heights? Don’t worry! You don’t HAVE to go high—stick low and climb horizontally. These movements are not only super fun but also fantastic for building strength and stamina, preparing you for when you’re ready to climb higher! 💪
And last but not least, HAVE FUN! 🎉 Bouldering saved my mental health, brought me so much joy, and helped me build amazing friendships. Plus, it’s my favorite way to show off for my girl! 😎 I love it—and you might, too!
So you’re ready to dive into bouldering – that’s awesome! After reading about the basics, you might be wondering, "What kind of physical changes can I expect?" or "How can I prepare my body?" I definitely asked myself those questions when I first started. Bouldering isn't just a fun activity; it’s a fantastic full-body workout that brings incredible transformations, both visible and internal. When people ask about "bouldering before and after," they often picture dramatic muscle gains. While you might not turn into a pro climber overnight, you'll definitely notice significant changes. The most obvious is the development of functional strength. Unlike lifting heavy weights in a linear fashion, bouldering builds strength that directly translates to real-world movement. You’ll feel stronger in your everyday tasks, from carrying groceries to opening stubborn jars. I've personally seen my back and shoulder definition improve, which was a nice bonus! It’s less about bulk and more about lean, agile strength. Curious about the "bouldering muscles worked"? It's practically every muscle group! Your forearms and grip strength will become incredibly powerful as you hold onto those crimps and jugs. Your back muscles, especially your lats and rhomboids, work hard to pull you up and keep you close to the wall. The core is constantly engaged for stability and balance, making bouldering an excellent way to build a strong midsection without doing a single crunch. And don't forget your legs! While it looks like an upper-body sport, strong legs and precise footwork are crucial for pushing off holds and maintaining balance. My glutes and hamstrings get a serious workout on slab routes! For "bouldering training for beginners," you don't need a fancy gym routine outside of the bouldering gym itself. The best training is often just more bouldering! However, incorporating some simple exercises can really help. I found that doing bodyweight exercises like pull-ups (even assisted ones!), planks, and squats on my rest days made a huge difference. Stretching, especially for your shoulders, hips, and hamstrings, is also super important for flexibility and preventing injury. Remember those "Movement basics" we talked about? Good flexibility helps you achieve those tricky body positions. And don't neglect your hands – those "care tips!" are vital. Moisturize and keep those calluses in check! The "bouldering body transformation" isn't just about physical appearance or strength. It's also about improved coordination, problem-solving skills, and mental resilience. Each problem (that's what we call a route!) is like a puzzle, challenging you to think creatively and adapt. The sense of accomplishment when you "send" a difficult route is unmatched. You'll build confidence alongside your muscles. So, if you're looking for an activity that sculpts your body, sharpens your mind, and brings a fantastic community, bouldering might just be your perfect match. Give it a try, listen to your body, and enjoy the journey! You'll be amazed at what your body can achieve.