Water resistant hair = low porosity?
It’s commonly thought that water resistant hair is a sign of low porosity, but this is outdated. We know that the cuticle porosity is just part of hair’s relationship with water. Products on the surface and natural hair lipids can cause water resistance. A new paper suggests in tightly curled/coiled hair (“type 4”, “afro-type”) the physical forces between strands of hair is a unique factor. It creates a type of hydrogen bond not present in other hair that makes this type of hair potentially *stronger* when wet unlike other hair types. #hairscience #lowporositynaturalhair #knowyourporosity
Recent research highlights a fascinating aspect of hair science that challenges long-held beliefs about water resistance and hair porosity. Traditionally, water-resistant hair has been associated with low porosity, meaning the hair cuticle is tightly closed, preventing moisture from easily entering or leaving. However, this view is evolving, especially when it comes to tightly curled or coiled hair types, commonly classified as type 4 or afro-textured hair. A groundbreaking study (doi:10.1016/j-jid.2024.06.1282) reveals that in these hair types, water resistance may stem not solely from porosity but from the unique physical interactions between individual hair strands. These tightly coiled strands create physical forces leading to the formation of specific hydrogen bonds absent in straighter hair types. These bonds contribute to a distinctive water interaction, making tightly curled hair both water resistant and potentially stronger when wet, unlike other hair types that generally weaken when exposed to moisture. This insight reshapes how we understand hair health and the role of porosity in hair care. While cuticle porosity remains crucial, it’s clear that surface products, natural oils (lipids), and these unique inter-strand bonds all contribute to how hair responds to water. For those with low porosity natural hair, this means that water resistance may not just be about tightly closed cuticles but also about these powerful hydrogen bonds and lipid layers. For everyday hair care, this means individuals with tightly curled hair might benefit from treatments that respect and enhance these natural bonds rather than disrupt them. Protective styling, gentle moisturizing products that support the natural lipid barrier, and avoiding harsh chemicals can maintain both the strength and water resistance of this hair type. In summary, moving beyond the myth that water-resistant hair equals low porosity opens new doors for tailored hair care strategies, especially for type 4 hair. Embracing this scientific understanding helps cultivate healthier, stronger hair with improved moisture management, offering a refreshing perspective for afro-textured hair care enthusiasts and professionals alike.