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Today's Kimono Corde

1/12 Edited to

... Read more和洋折衷の着物コーデをするとき、私がいちばん意識しているのは「足し算しすぎない」ことです。着物が柄強め(今回はダークな龍郷柄)なら、小物は“色数を絞って質感で遊ぶ”とまとまりやすいなと感じました。黒のレースチョーカーは、面積は小さいのに顔まわりが一気に締まるので便利。帯まわりやブーツなど、どこかに黒を1点入れておくと浮きにくいです。 着物にチョーカーを合わせるコツは、半衿との距離感。首が詰まって見えるときは、チョーカーを少し下げるよりも、半衿側をすっきり(薄め・短め)にするとバランスが取りやすいです。逆に、半衿でしっかり盛っている日は、チョーカーは細めにするとケンカしません。 「アームカバー×着物」は、防寒と汚れ対策の実用面でもかなりおすすめです。袖口が広い着物の日は、手元が冷えやすいし、外出先で袖が机やドアに触れがち。赤みのあるアームカバーを差し色にすると、写真でも手元が映えて全体が引き締まりました。刺繍入りなど存在感があるタイプは、帯やチョーカーと“金具の色(ゴールド/シルバー)”を揃えると統一感が出ます。 カヤのたすき帯ベルトの付け方は、私の場合は「帯の上」に重ねるやり方がいちばん安定しました。手順は、①帯結び(または帯締め)を先に完成させる ②たすき帯ベルトをウエスト位置に回す ③バックルを正面か少し脇にずらして留める ④余りを背中側で平らに整える、の流れ。ポイントは“締めすぎない”こと。帯をつぶすほど締めるとシワが出やすいので、指が1〜2本入るくらいで留めて、ズレが気になるときは位置を少し上げると落ち着きます。 最後にストール。チェック柄みたいに色が多いアイテムは、着物側の色(今回は赤や黒)を拾ってくれるものを選ぶと失敗しにくいです。蝶のブローチみたいなモチーフ小物は、帯周りか肩周りの“どちらか一方”に寄せて配置すると、ごちゃつかずに主役っぽく見せられました。

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