Build Process: HG Delta Plus

Hello zesties, after 2 RGs and a pokemon in a row I decided that my next gunpla I wanted it to be something cheaper and simpler, so here we are with the HG Delta Plus. Initally not on my watchlist of kits, but after watching gundam unicorn I can't say I really don't want it (I hate its pilot though)

TOOLS USED

Building:

-Stedi MS-104 Nippers

-Double bladed nippers

-StyleX sandings sticks

-Dspiae siren glass file

-Craft knife

-Part separator (because I accidentally put together parts that weren't supposed to be together

-Mr Hobby Cement

Detailing:

-Gundam panel liner markers (liner and pour type in black, eraser marker)

-Dspiae paint markers: Black, White, Grey, Metallic Silver, Metallic Red, Metallic Green, Gunmetal

-Leftover water slide decals from previous builds

-q-tips

-paint sticks

-Mr Super Clear UV Cut (Matte)

OLD KIT THINGS

This kit came out in 2010, so there is plenty of touch up work needed. Specifically, with mold lines and seam lines.

Mold lines: they are in pretty obvious spots like the ankles, and I almost overlooked some of them right until the point of assembly. The kit is somewhat forgiving when it comes to scratches from sanding sticks, especially the purplish grey. I didn't dare to test sandpaper on the dark blue, so I used a glass file.

Seam lines: this kit has a lot of them. Even as I was taking pictures of it for this post I realized more and more seam lines that I could have sealed with cement. Unfortunately not all were sealed perfectly, but some learning points:

1. if there is a nub near/at the seam line, cement the line, then sand everything in 1 shot. This ensures the whole part is consistently sanded

2. apply the cement at the point of contact between the 2 parts only. Anywhere else will not do anything.

3. No need to press the 2 pieces together instantly. The cement needs some time to react with the plastic first.

4. Do no oversand. Many of my pieces look asymmetrical because of this.

PAINTING

There were surprisingly many opportunities for painting on this kit, specifically in colour correcting stickers and the inner frame.

Colour correcting: I had the coloured markers to use in place of stickers. Where I can, I'd rather paint as stickers peel over time. To help with adhesion to the surface, I sanded the surface with 800 grit before painting. It's a little extra work, but it helps improve adhesion, especially for paints that do not level well.

Inner frame: this kit has some inner frame parts that almost resemble RGs. For the parts peaking through, I used gunmetal and silver. I wanted a little more for the pipes at the calves, so I experimented with metallic red (which I see sometimes with painted IBO inner frames). Looks nice, but should have cemented the pipes because the gap from the seam line is still very visible.

DECALS

I had leftover decals from previous kits. Since HGs tend to look pretty plain, I decided why not use them on this kit? Since I didn't have a guide on where to put what, I took inspiration from my previous builds and logic (e.g. put caution signs near vents and moving parts). I also didn't want to overdo it or end up putting too many clashing colours and designs, so I kept it minimal.

Some things I noticed to consider for future builds:

1. Decals from different brands and kits have different art styles, such as different fonts. Some decals are also specific to certain mobile suits (has that MS name, logo of faction). Especially if you care a lot about these details, look carefully before you stick

2. find a reference point on the part to align your decal. This can be a panel line or the edge of the part. I cannot stress this enough because everything was so off-centre and the more I adjusted some parts, the worse they got. Some even broke.

TOP COAT

I went with mist coat then wet coat like my previous build, using matte. However my spray can was running out, causing it to spray very inconsistently. I would have next to nothing in 1 spray, then suddenly a lot. While I was able to get a matte finish of all the parts, some parts have splotches if looked at very closely. There was also some discolouration at parts where there was cement. Speficially, parts where the cement spilled over onto a part (not the seam lines).

FINISHED PRODUCT

This was meant to be a chill build, but I ran into numerous problems along the way like fixing old kit things and almost running out of topcoat. However, it was still an enjoyable process to improve cementing and practice applying decals again.

I thought I wouldn’t like wave rider mode at first, but after partsforming it I am genuinely in a dilemma on whether I should display it in wave rider of MS mode because of how good it looks. Making it a partsformer was also a good idea, as transforming would make it too fragile.

It will likely be a while until my next build, as I plan to save money to get a bigger 1 (a large RG or even an MG) and keep an eye for a good deal.

#gundamcommunity #gundam #gunplabuilder #gunpla

2025/12/3 Edited to

... Read moreApart from the main build process, I found it really helpful to pay extra attention to seam lines and mold lines, especially on older kits like this 2010 HG Delta Plus. It’s easy to overlook some spots until assembly, so I recommend checking each piece thoroughly before putting them together. When adding details, I also learned that using leftover decals from previous kits can add character without overwhelming the model. But watch out for differences in style and font between decal sets to keep a consistent look. I often aligned decals using panel lines or edges as guides; this saved me a lot of frustration from off-center placements. Painting was surprisingly rewarding, especially when correcting sticker colors with paint markers. Sanding with 800 grit before painting improves paint adhesion significantly, which is something I wish I had known earlier. Finally, for the top coat, using matte spray really brings the model together but be careful if your spray can is almost empty—it can cause uneven coverage and discoloration, especially where cement may have spilled. Transforming the model into wave rider mode gave me a new appreciation for the kit’s design, though I decided to partsform it for better stability. It's a great way to display this versatile gunpla without risking fragility. Overall, this build was a relaxing yet educational experience that I recommend for both beginners looking for a simpler kit and enthusiasts wanting to practice detailing techniques.