Build process: FM Kimaris Pt1
Hello zestos, before the mk II was completed I broke my rule of no backlog by buying this because I really wanted an ibo kit, specifically the kimaris which is so hard to find at a reasonable price on carousell (I try to buy second hand kits as far as possible to save money). Anyway as my first 1/100 kit, i decided to split it into 2 parts, just like how the manual divides the build into inner frame, outer armour, and weapons.
TOOLS USED
Building
-Stedi MS-104 single bladed nippers
-double bladed nippers
-StyleX sanding sticks (gonna replace them with new ones after this)
-Dspiae siren glass file
-craft knife
-part separator
-Mr Hobby cement
-Dspiae joint strengthening pen (this kit is not known for having strong joints)
Painting
-Dspiae paint markers (metallic black, silver, gunmetal, metallic purple, supermetallic bronze)
-gundam panel liner markers (black liner, black pour type, eraser marker)
-q tips
PLANNING
Out of box, the inner frame is in only 1 colour, so I knew I wanted to paint it. Posts on this kit online are rare, but I managed to find 1 on imgur (https://imgur.com/a/kimaris-inner-frame-I590L ), which heavily informed what I wanted the final product to look like. From that image, I decided to stick to the metallic colours, and not the 2 tone purple because that's to much work.
PAINTING
Too many colours would ruin the look, especially if applied inconsistently. Based on the reference image and to fix how colours are used, I set the following rules:
1. gunmetal for panels
2. metallic black for tubes
3. bronze and silver for pistons
--dspiae supermetallic markers are for some reason very watery. I needed to colour a few layers to get a significant coat. Even then if you look closely you can still see the purple underneath.
4. metallic purple for the ahab reactors (to communicate the idea of them emitting energy)
5. silver for any dotted protrusions
SANDING (AND FAILING)
The inner frame's purple is not forgiving towards sandpaper. If this wasn't inner frame, I would have (and should have) just used a glass file all the way. Even when trying to smooth out seam lines (and there are a lot of them), I ended up doing more damage to the surface and making it worse than if I just left the seam line as is. Fortunately most of it will be covered up. Though I'm not looking forward to the later parts, especially the lance which is 2 halves sandwiched together.
As for the sanding experience, idk if it is because my sticks are long overdue for a replacement but mold lines were just extremely difficult to get rid of. Especially at the ahab reactors and joints, I found myself sanding off the detailing before the mold lines and gave up. Unfortunately many of these will be visible so I guess I'll have to contend with it.
Nub placement didn't help much either, as they were often on or near details. Unfortunately I decided to sand away some details altogether, or leave some with incomplete sanding.
#gundam #gundamcommunity #gunpla #gunplacommunity #gunplabuilder
Building a complex Gunpla kit like the 1/100 Gundam Kimaris offers both rewarding challenges and valuable learning opportunities. From personal experience, purchasing second-hand kits on platforms such as Carousell can be a great way to save money, but it requires patience to find the right deal, especially for sought-after kits like the Kimaris. When it comes to painting the inner frame, sticking to a cohesive color scheme really elevates the final look. Metallic paints, such as gunmetal for panels and metallic black for tubing, create a realistic mechanical feel without overwhelming the model. Using multiple thin coats can help address issues with watery markers, such as the Dspiae supermetallic pens, to build up coverage gradually without obscuring fine details. Sanding proved to be one of the trickiest aspects. The purple plastic is highly sensitive to scratching, and mold lines can be stubborn to remove without damaging small details. A glass file may offer more gentle control than sandpaper sticks for delicate areas like the ahab reactors. Planning ahead to minimize sanding or accepting some minor imperfections may save frustration and preserve detail. Another tip is to carefully evaluate nub placement before cutting parts off the runner. Avoid sanding at or near detailed protrusions to maintain the sculpt’s integrity. Ultimately, patience and adjusting techniques throughout the build are key. Sharing progress in stages, as done by dividing the build into inner frame and outer armor phases, helps track improvements and challenges. This approach encourages continuous learning for Gunpla builders working on intricate kits like the Kimaris.
