Build process: MG Barbatos pt 1
Hello again, I have just started on my first ever master grade and I have to say while it was daunting at first, I have gone through it faster than I was initially expecting (likely due to me being unemployed at the moment). This kit was going to be me putting all my skills to use not just because its the most expensive kit I have worked on and want the most out of it, but also because this is the first kit in my long term goal of collecting the mascot gundam of each series/movie.
TOOLS USED
Building:
-Stedi MS-104 single bladed nipper
-double bladed nipper
-craft knife
-dspiae siren glass file
-styleX sanding sticks
Detailing:
-Gundam panel line marker liner type
-Dspiae markers: white, metallic black, metallic silver, metallic red, metallic pale gold, super metallic green
-raystudio acryllic paint: white, black, dark grey, light warm grey, pale brown, dark cool grey, greyish green
-paint sticks
-paint brush
-EVO waterslide decals
DRY BRUSHING
Dry brushing was something I wanted to do since the FM kimaris to make it look less plasticky but couldn't due to its inner frame's colour. However, the brown-grey of the barbatos' inner frame was perfect as it blended well with dspiae's metallic black. The texture of dry brushing would also help to break up the plain-ness of the kit.
Since I could not pump out the ink from the marker (as many online guides recommend), I brushed the soft tip straight onto a paint brush. The transfer of ink is inefficient enough such that there's no need to clean off excess, though this means I needed to reapply ink for every single piece. The difference isn't noticable at first as the ink and the base colour are very similar, but after putting it together the metallic finish was more obvious. Dry brushing was also helpful in covering up stress marks, and sanding with rough grits to remove mould lines and nub marks.
MARKER PAINTING
Learning from the kimaris, I decided to stick with the following to keep the design consistent:
-pistons: metallic red
-accent colour: metallic silver
-pipes: pale gold
Some of my dspiae markers don't work as well as before, likely due to ink drying up? I initially wanted to use metallic gold, but decided to switch to pale gold as it was not coating as well. Pale gold's coverage is better probably because this is a new marker. But still when touching it, the pale gold part comes off, leaving silver behind. I chose to live with it, because it makes it look naturally weathered. This did however make me hesitant to panel line the kit, especially the pipes. I might revisit it after topcoating later on.
PILOT FIGURE
Skin: white + pale brown (1:1)
Hair: black
Inner shirt: dark cool grey
Jacket: greyish green
Tekkadan logo: dspiae white
Pants: light warm grey
Boots: dark grey
Alaya-Vijnana: dark grey
I initially started with a thin brush at first, but realized that I was more used to satay sticks (the reverse end of paint sticks). While paint application was not as precise as the manual, it looks surprisingly good. Nonetheless, I had to adjust my expectations that I was not going to be painting as detailed as the manual. Specifically for the Tekkadan logo. After painting over multiple times, I decided to leave it as a white mark. Maybe I should have used a water slide decal.
WATERSLIDE DECALS
I've used EVO before, and while they need more time in the water to separate from the paper, they are otherwise pretty good. This sheet of decals provides both the stickers and additional decals (to be used with the outer armour). While most of the decals on the inner frame will be covered up, I paid for the whole sheet of decals, so I am going to use the whole sheet of decals.
I was concerned that water would mess with the paint markers, especially since I didn't topcoat the kit. Fortunately it didn't, even for the pale gold. However, one thing to note is that since these layers scratch off quite easily, I had to be extra careful when shifting the decal around with the sharp end of the paint stick. In some cases, I just left it as is as soon as i slid the decal over.
To be honest the decals are barely noticable on the finished product, but decals are my favourite part of building gunpla so no complaints for having to do it.
CONCLUSION
Based on the manual thus far it seems like I have done most of the building, but there is still a lot of decals to be applied. At the moment I'm also deciding whether to do any handpainting such as 2 tone painting, the outer armour does not have as many segmented parts like the kimaris.
But what is for sure is that I'm kinda bummed that most of this detail is going to get covered up soon :\
#gundam #gundamcommunity #gunpla #gunplacommunity #gunplabuilder
Building a Master Grade (MG) Barbatos kit is an exciting first step into more advanced Gunpla modeling for many enthusiasts. From my experience, preparation and patience are key to enjoying the process and achieving satisfying results. One critical insight I've gained is the importance of testing different tools early on. For instance, using the Stedi MS-104 single-bladed nipper alongside a double-bladed nipper gave me precise cuts that minimized nub marks, reducing time spent on sanding later. Dry brushing was a technique I initially hesitated on but found invaluable for adding realistic texture to the brown-grey inner frame of the Barbatos. Since the metallic black marker ink doesn't pump out easily, brushing it onto a paintbrush and then lightly applying it allowed subtle shading differences, enhancing the model’s depth. The slight metallic finish not only breaks up monotony but also disguises stress marks and sanding imperfections effectively. Marker painting the pistons in metallic red with accent colors like metallic silver and pale gold pipes created consistent detailing matching the model’s design language. One challenge was the fading of pale gold paint upon touch, which upon reflection, adds a natural weathered look that can appeal to those seeking realism over perfection. When painting the pilot figure, switching from a thin brush to using the reverse end of paint sticks helped with control despite lacking precision. It reminded me that not every step requires perfection; embracing small imperfections can give your build character. For tricky decals like the Tekkadan logo, waterslide decals might be preferable over hand painting for sharper results. Speaking of decals, EVO waterslide decals do require patience—they need soaking longer in water before application. My top tip is cautious decal movement to prevent scratching the paint underneath, especially if you skip topcoat as I did. While the decals are subtle on the finished product, they add authentic details that truly bring the model to life. Overall, my first MG Barbatos build has taught me to balance skill growth and enjoying the journey. While it’s tempting to over-detail every part, knowing which areas will be covered or hardly visible after assembly helps prioritize effort. I plan to experiment with two-tone painting on the outer armor next, aiming to add visual interest without overwhelming the model. This reflective build process has deepened my appreciation of Gunpla’s artistry and will guide my future mascot Gundam collections with both patience and passion.