Finishing my first MG
Hello, I'm back again with an update on barbatos. After over a month (much longer than I thought I would spend, and probably the longest I have spent) on a kit, I have finally finished it to a level of detail that I can reasonably expect from myself and be happy with. While it's still not perfect, I learnt alot from working on it.
TOOLS USED
Building
-Stedi MS-104 nippers
-double bladed nippers
-craft knife
-Dspiae siren glass file
-StyleX sanding sticks
-Mr hobby cement (some pieces were loose)
Detailing
-gundam panel line markers (pour, liner, eraser)
-Dspiae paint markers (grey, metallic black, metallic silver, metallic red, gunmetal, supermetallic green, eraser)
-Raystudio idea acrylic paints (black, red, deep ocean blue, lunar grey, light warm grey, dark warm grey)
-paint brushes
-paint sticks
-masking tape
-EVO waterslide decals
-tweezers
-q tips
-mr hobby super clear matte UV cut topcoat
DRY BRUSHING
For the outer armour I wanted to dry brush the inner sides that would be exposed to give it a more realistic look. I started by painting them with dspiae grey, then dry brushing with gunmetal. I liked the result as it gave a unique colour and finish. However, because I relied mostly on inferring from the manual how it would look, most of the areas that I dry brushed were not as visible, while I overlooked many visible spots where the white can be seen. Where I could, I just decided to brush over with dspiae gunmetal.
HAND PAINTING
Red second tone: red
White second tone: lunar grey
Blue second tone: deep ocean blue
Hollow parts: black
There was significantly more improvement in reducing spillover by using larger sheets of masking tape, making for a more satisfying experience when tearing off the tape. That being said, it wasn't perfect for a number of reasons:
-some panel lines now permanently buried. I made do with some by using the liner type. But I prefer the pour type as the ink is generally darker and the line is more crisp. Perhaps I should invest in a scriber.
-deep ocean blue looks identical to the blue of the kit.
Gun body: dark warm grey, light warm grey
barrel: metallic black
barrel hole: black
I knew I wanted to repaint the 300mm smooth bore gun because I didn't like the brown and it needed an accent colour, but I was not sure until I was forced to use #400 on almost every part because of the mold lines and cleaning up seam lines.
I initially covered the brown in dark warm grey, before adding light warm grey as an accent. I wanted to dry brush metallic black onto the barrel, but somehow the ink didn't adhere well to it likely due to the smoothness of the curved surface. I decided just to brush it on.
To note: if the pieces are clipped on a paint stick, wet paint may flow downwards to the lowest point. If not fixed, it could cause uneven layering or create bubbles which will remain after the paint has dried.
WEATHERING
I was initially planning to go even more detailed than normal with weathering (because tbh I wasn't really happy with how it was done on the kimaris), so I searched up tutorials which suggested using additional painted colours and using a sponge to create random speckled paint chipping. I also considered mixing brown paint with water to create my own DIY weathering wash. However by this time I was quite tired from working on the same kit for a long time and decided that I ought to wrap it up soon.
I went back to my tried and true method of ink on a satay stick, but this time reminded myself to apply less than usual to avoid overdoing it. To minimize too much ink being applied in 1 spot, I started with applying ink in the hard to see places to wipe off excess, or blowing on the stick to dry the ink a little before applying. The battle damage does not look as extensive and may not even be noticed if viewed from far, but I feel that keeping it minimal did elevate the look alot without making it look too messy
THOUGHTS
What stuck with me from this kit was how long it took for me to finish it, from sanding, planning how I will customize it, painting, and detailing. Given that this will be the first in many more MGs to come, I realized that completing the collection of mascot gundams in MG will take a lot longer. Hence, no need to rush to buy since each one is going to occupy me for a while
Working on a Master Grade (MG) model like Barbatos was both a challenging and rewarding experience for me. One of the most valuable lessons I've learned throughout the build process is the importance of patience and meticulous planning. For example, taking extra time to properly sand and clean mold lines—using fine grit sandpaper such as #400—can significantly improve the paint finish and adhesion. When it comes to painting, I've found that layering colors with masking tape helps achieve crisp lines and reduces paint spillover, but make sure to use larger, high-quality tape sheets for smoother removal and better coverage. The choice of paint markers and acrylic paints also impacts the final look; markers like dspiae and Raystudio offer excellent color variety and depth, especially useful for detailed panel lining and shading. Dry brushing inner armour parts with metallic tones like gunmetal adds subtle yet striking realism to the model, although it requires careful study of the kit's manual and an eye for visible areas to avoid missing spots. For curved or smooth surfaces, brushing on metallic paint directly may yield better results since dry brushing might not adhere well. Weathering is another technique I experimented with to add character to my Barbatos. While detailed chipping and washes can elevate realism, sometimes less is more to avoid overwhelming the model. Starting with light weathering in less visible areas and gradually increasing intensity lets you control the effect and keep a balanced appearance. Throughout the build, be mindful of how paint flows on parts clipped on sticks; wet paint can pool at the lowest points causing uneven finishes or bubbles. Applying thinner coats and checking from multiple angles helps prevent these issues. Overall, finishing my first MG Barbatos highlighted how much time and dedication these projects demand, but it also fueled my enthusiasm for expanding my Gunpla collection thoughtfully. Taking breaks and pacing yourself ensures each build remains enjoyable without burnout. I encourage fellow Gunpla builders to embrace the learning curve and celebrate each detailed step toward completing their masterpiece.
