There's a festival in Yunnan where 10,000 strangers will paint your face black — and the more black you get, the more you're loved. It's called Moh Nin Hei (摸你黑) — Wa language for "may this last forever." It happens in Cangyuan, on the Myanmar border. China's only Wa A

I'm Bai. I grew up in Dali. And every May, our biggest festival happens — most foreigners walk right past it. Here's the thing tourists don't get: Sanyue Jie isn't a market. It's our New Year. For the Bai people, this is what Christmas + Lunar New Year + a county fair all