skincare habits I learned from dermatologists / derm residents during residency
Tretinoin — The gold standard for smoother texture, smaller-looking pores, fewer breakouts, and reversal / prevention of fine lines and sun damage.
Azelaic acid - Works on acne, rosacea, post-inflammatory erythema and hyperpigmentation through anti-inflammatory + keratolytic effects. Gentler than most actives and doesn't make you sun-sensitive.
Hypochlorous acid - spray it on after a workout, or any time your skin feels irritated, greasy or broken out. It's the same compound your immune system produces to fight bacteria.
Niacinamide - Strengthens the skin barrier, reduces sebum production, fades post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Pairs with basically everything.
Vitamin c - great ingredient, terrible industry track record. Most products are degraded before you open them. When it actually works though: fades post-acne marks, evens skin tone, boosts collagen, and shields your skin from daily UV damage.
Zinc - Anti-inflammatory, cuts down on oil, fights acne bacteria. Oral zinc also has solid evidence for acne and most people are deficient anyway.
Please know I’m not a dermatologist and this isn’t help care advice, just some things I learned from those specializing in the field as it relates to my skin personally. Always consult your own provider - none of this is medical advice and all personal opinion 🩷
During my dermatology residency, I realized that consistent skincare habits are pivotal for long-term skin health and appearance. One of the key lessons was how combining certain active ingredients can yield significant improvements without compromising the skin barrier. For example, tretinoin is often called the gold standard because it improves texture, reduces pore size, prevents breakouts, and combats early signs of aging such as fine lines and sun damage. Patience and proper usage, typically under medical supervision, are essential to avoid irritation and maximize benefits. Azelaic acid was another standout ingredient I learned about. It’s versatile in treating acne, rosacea, and pigmentation issues like post-inflammatory erythema and hyperpigmentation. Unlike harsher actives, azelaic acid is gentle and doesn’t increase sun sensitivity, making it suitable for sensitive skin types or those who avoid retinoids. Hypochlorous acid fascinated me because it’s a natural compound produced by our immune system to fight bacteria. Using a hypochlorous acid spray after workouts or when skin feels irritated can soothe and reduce inflammation effectively, serving as a gentle yet powerful skincare tool. Niacinamide proved invaluable in strengthening the skin’s barrier, controlling oil production, and fading scars or discoloration. It is notable for its compatibility with nearly all other skincare ingredients, making it an excellent base for any routine. Vitamin C, despite its unstable nature in many commercial products, remains an important antioxidant. When formulated correctly, it helps fade acne marks, evens out skin tone, boosts collagen synthesis, and provides daily UV protection alongside sunscreen. Zinc supplements and topical zinc also caught my attention due to their anti-inflammatory properties and ability to reduce acne-causing bacteria. Many people are zinc-deficient, so supplementing can sometimes offer additional benefits alongside topical treatment. The overarching takeaway from my training and personal experience is that skincare should be tailored individually, emphasizing gentle yet effective active ingredients combined with barrier-supporting moisturizers like ceramides, glycerin, or hyaluronic acid. I learned the importance of rotating active treatments and barrier repair products to maintain skin health and prevent irritation. Always remember, while these insights have helped me personalize my skincare journey, consulting a dermatologist or skincare professional is crucial before making significant changes or starting prescription-strength ingredients. This ensures safety and the best outcomes for your unique skin needs.
