Loches: the duke who painted his own dungeon
Three hundred meters of rock separate the two halves of Loches, in Touraine.
At the south end, a keep about 37 meters tall, raised by Fulk Nerra between 1013 and 1035. Tree-ring dating moved that back some seventy years from where scholars had put it.
At the north end, the Logis Royal, where Joan of Arc came in the spring of 1429 and pressed a hesitant Charles VII to go and be crowned. He went. Reims, July 17.
Between them is the part people remember. Under Louis XI the keep became a state prison, and from 1504 the Martelet held Ludovico Sforza, Duke of Milan, the patron who had kept Leonardo da Vinci at his court. He died there on May 27, 1508, having decorated his own cell: a painted altar cross, bands of color and device, and a motto still half legible. Celui qui n'est pas content.
If you have been down in the Martelet, tell me how much of that motto you could still read.
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Visiting Loches offers a rare glimpse into a medieval fortress that truly bridges time, architecture, and personal stories. The two main parts—the towering keep built by Fulk Nerra and the Logis Royal—stand separated by 300 meters of rock, making the castle’s layout itself a striking experience. One of the castle’s most compelling narratives involves Ludovico Sforza, Duke of Milan and patron to Leonardo da Vinci, who spent his final years imprisoned in the Martelet under Louis XI. What fascinates me about this is how Sforza transformed his prison cell into a personal canvas, painting an altar cross, decorative bands, and a motto “Celui qui n'est pas content” (“He who is not content”). This act of artistic creation in captivity speaks volumes about the resilience of the human spirit and the desire to leave a mark, even in confinement. The castle also played a pivotal role during the Hundred Years’ War, with Joan of Arc’s famous visit in 1429 urging Charles VII toward his coronation in Reims. Walking through the castle, you can almost hear the echoes of these historic moments. If you have the chance to explore the Martelet, look closely for the remnants of Sforza’s motto—it’s a subtle yet powerful message from a Duke who faced his fate with artistry and defiance. This blend of history, architecture, and art makes Loches a uniquely enriching destination for history buffs and travelers alike, offering insights not just into medieval power but into the enduring personal stories etched into its stones.
