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Katz and Maus: two Rhine castles, the mouse won
The Cat and the Mouse. Two castles on the same bank of the Rhine, a few kilometers apart, built by rivals who wanted the same toll money. The Mouse came first. In 1353 the Archbishop-Elector of Trier bought the village of Wellmich, got an imperial license to fortify it in 1356, and had the first
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Eltz Castle: split three ways, still one castle
Three brothers. One rock. In 1268 Elias, Wilhelm and Theoderich divided the castle and estate at Eltz into three equal shares and then did the opposite of what that usually means. They kept the fortified enclosure as common ground and built upward inside it, separately, for the next two and a ha
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Rheinstein Castle: a ruin bought for four talers
Four talers. That is what a Hessian official paid in 1822 for the empty shell of a castle above the Rhine at Trechtingshausen. It had been built around 1316 by the Archbishopric of Mainz, under the name Vautsberg, to police river traffic and to enforce a rebuilding ban on the neighboring castle
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Munich Residenz: 50 square meters of roof left
50 square meters. That is what was left of the Munich Residenz roof after the raids of 1944, out of 23,500. The Bavarian government did the arithmetic afterwards. Almost everything above the cellars was open to the sky. The palace had taken four and a half centuries to build. It started in 1385
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Babelsberg Palace: the day Bismarck got the job
September 22, 1862. A Prussian king had an abdication drafted and was ready to sign it. Wilhelm I had spent two years deadlocked with the lower house over the money for his army reform. He would not govern against his own conscience, so he prepared to walk away from the throne. Albrecht von Roon
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Leuchtenburg: six lives on one Thuringian hill
Noble seat. District office. Workhouse. Hotel. Youth hostel. Porcelain museum. Leuchtenburg stands on a bare cone of rock above Seitenroda, near Kahla in Thuringia, first recorded in 1221 as the seat of the lords of Lobdeburg. A carved relief lists the changes of hands: 1221, 1333, 1396, 1485.
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Friedenstein: a peace vow built during the war
Friedenstein means stone of peace. The name was given in 1643, while the Thirty Years' War was still burning across Germany. Duke Ernst I of Saxe-Gotha, remembered as Ernst the Pious, had inherited a territory wrecked by two decades of fighting. His answer was to build. He laid the foundatio
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Chenonceau’s gallery was a border crossing
Sixty meters of black-and-white checkerboard floor, laid across a river and finished in 1576. Catherine de' Medici built her two-story gallery on the bridge Diane de Poitiers had thrown over the Cher. Six meters wide, eighteen windows along its flanks, inaugurated the year after completion w
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Nymphenburg started as a thank-you gift, 1664
It started as a thank-you for a son. Ferdinand Maria and Henriette Adelaide of Savoy waited ten years for an heir. When Max Emanuel arrived in 1662, the Bavarian elector gave his wife an estate on open meadow west of Munich and the money to build on it. She got one tall Italian pavilion in a wal
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Neues Palais: Frederick called it a fanfaronade
Fanfaronade. A brag. Frederick the Great's own word for the largest building he ever raised, and the foundation that runs it keeps that judgment in its subtitle. Prussia had just survived seven years of war against Austria, France and Russia at once. The Treaty of Hubertusburg ended it in 17
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Chateau d’Usse: the soldier behind Sleeping Beauty
Agincourt, 1415. Jean V de Bueil lost his father and his uncles there, and he was still a boy. He grew up to fight the English hard enough to be called le Fleau des Anglais, the Scourge of the English. He rode with Joan of Arc through the campaign of 1429: Orleans, Patay, and the march that carr
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Chambord hid the Mona Lisa from 1939
The Louvre closed its doors on August 25, 1939. Three days later the Mona Lisa left Paris. She travelled in a padded van, among dozens of other masterpieces, bound for Chambord in the Loir-et-Cher. Jacques Jaujard, head of France's national museums, had spent 1938 and 1939 organizing the eva
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Moritzburg: 43 crates buried in the forest, 1945
The lodge here was called the Dianenburg first, after the goddess of the chase. Duke Moritz of Saxony raised it on a granite knoll in 1542, and by 1549 the documents were writing Moritzburch instead. What stands there now was Augustus the Strong's idea. He sketched it himself around 1703, an
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Chinon: the “impregnable” rock fell in 1205
Impregnable. That was the word for the rock above the Vienne, and for a long time it held. The Forteresse Royale de Chinon runs about four hundred meters along a tuffeau spur in Indre-et-Loire, over the medieval crossing into Touraine. Whoever held the ridge held the road from Tours. Henry II of
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Loches: the duke who painted his own dungeon
Three hundred meters of rock separate the two halves of Loches, in Touraine. At the south end, a keep about 37 meters tall, raised by Fulk Nerra between 1013 and 1035. Tree-ring dating moved that back some seventy years from where scholars had put it. At the north end, the Logis Royal, where
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Neuschwanstein: the throne hall has no throne
The throne hall has no throne. A church-like apse was built at its north end to hold one, and the throne was never made. That is the honest shape of Neuschwanstein, and this timeline is the reason for it. Ludwig II came to the Bavarian throne in 1864 at eighteen. He visited the restored Wartb
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Chantilly: the museum that can never lend a work
Two conditions came with the bequest. Never lend a single work. Never rearrange the galleries. Henri d'Orleans, duc d'Aumale, spent two decades of exile in England buying paintings, drawings and manuscripts. Allowed home in 1871, he found Chantilly dilapidated, rebuilt the Grand Chateau
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Vaux-le-Vicomte: the party that ended a career
Six in the evening, August 17, 1661. Louis XIV arrives from Fontainebleau with his mother and some six hundred courtiers. Nicolas Fouquet, superintendent of finances, had built Vaux-le-Vicomte to flatter his king, and he had spent four years doing it. Charles Le Brun personally guided the royal
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Charlottenburg burned in 1943. One woman saved it
Margarete Kuhn is on none of the signage, and Palace is standing because of her. It began in 1695 as a summer villa for Sophie Charlotte, a Hanoverian princess who filled it with poets and musicians and argued philosophy with Leibniz. She died in 1705 at 36, and her widower renamed the house for
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Eltz Castle: 34 generations on one rock
184,000 Mark, spent on doing as little as possible. That is what Count Karl zu Eltz laid out between 1845 and 1888 on his family's castle above the Elzbach, roughly fifteen million euros in today's money by the castle's own reckoning. What makes the work unusual is not the sum. It is
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Castles & palaces, told two ways: the real history + how to visit 🏰