Chateau d’Usse: the soldier behind Sleeping Beauty
Agincourt, 1415. Jean V de Bueil lost his father and his uncles there, and he was still a boy.
He grew up to fight the English hard enough to be called le Fleau des Anglais, the Scourge of the English. He rode with Joan of Arc through the campaign of 1429: Orleans, Patay, and the march that carried Charles VII to his coronation at Reims. In 1450 the king made him Admiral of France. Late in life he wrote Le Jouvencel, one of the finest soldier's books of the French Middle Ages.
His family began turning the fortress at Usse, above the Indre in Touraine, into the white many-towered house standing there now. A cylindrical keep at the southwest corner still carries their fifteenth-century work.
Then debt did what the English could not. The Bueil heirs sold Usse in the 1480s.
No document ties Charles Perrault to this chateau. Ask a guide about Le Jouvencel instead, and see what you get.
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Visiting Chateau d’Usse is truly a journey back in time, not only because of its fairy-tale association with Sleeping Beauty but also due to the rich military and historical background tied to Jean V de Bueil. What many visitors find captivating is how this chateau encapsulates elements of medieval warfare history alongside Renaissance architectural beauty. Jean V de Bueil’s story is remarkable. Losing his father and uncles at the Battle of Agincourt as a child, he was thrust into a world of conflict. Known as le Fléau des Anglais, or the Scourge of the English, his military prowess became legendary during the Hundred Years' War. Riding alongside Joan of Arc, he participated in pivotal moments like the Siege of Orleans and the Battle of Patay, helping to turn the tide in favor of the French. The transformation of the fortress at Usse by Jean’s family from a stronghold to the enchanting white many-towered castle known today highlights the era's blending of defense and elegance. Even the surviving cylindrical keep at the southwest corner is a testament to this legacy. It’s also fascinating to learn that financial pressures eventually forced the family to sell the property, a reminder that even the mightiest warriors faced personal and economic struggles. For history buffs exploring the Loire Valley, learning about Le Jouvencel—the notable memoir written by Jean V de Bueil later in life—adds depth to any visit. The absence of direct documents tying Charles Perrault to Chateau d’Usse challenges common assumptions and invites visitors to engage more critically with local legends and the true history behind the castle. Personally, I found that taking a guided tour focused on the soldier’s history, rather than the more popular fairy-tale narrative, enriched my appreciation of the site. The terraces, often attributed to Vauban by tradition, are another intriguing feature that blends military engineering with garden artistry. If you’re planning a trip to the Loire Valley, Chateau d’Usse is a perfect mix of myth and reality, inviting you to explore both the romantic stories and the gritty history of medieval France.
